My 1995 740i was idling smooth and running fine except it would hesitate at WOT off the line at a stoplight. So after reading these forums it could be a dirty ICV so I took my ICV off the car and found it was completely black inside and full of carbon. I sprayed and sprayed carb cleaner and shook it as best as I could to ensure there was no moisture inside. The valve goes back and forth easily so its not stuck. I put it back on the car and I was greeted with the car shaking, burbling, and idling rough. I took it back off and cleaned it again and now its gotten a little better but the straight idle is not right. I beleive I messed up the ICV somehow cleaning it and now its out of whack. If I put my lights on my idle goes up and it doesnt burble and shake anymore. Also same thing if I put the AC on the idle goes up. Is this the sign of a faulty or worn out ICV?? This ICV is 21 years old now and has 132,XXX miles.
I did some testing based on some research information on the internet. I took resistance measurements between pin 1 and pin 2 and got about 13 ohms and from pin 2 to pin 3 I got 14.5 ohms. I measured the voltage coming off the connector block and it was around 11.7 volts I think. Another test I did was I turned the car on but did not start the engine and felt the ICV, it was vibrating. I took the ICV off the engine while it was still vibrating and with it in my hand I pulled the electrical connector. The valve would move a little back when I would attach the connector. Can someone verify my impedance measurements and also if that valve should move a little bit or alot more??? Maybe I just have a worn out ICV and its time for replacement? Its 21 years old (car was built in 1994 tho its a 1995 model).
I think the solution here may to just get a new ICV as the car was running fine and smooth until I tried cleaning it!!! I think it has been on the way out for awhile as my car doesnt do anything at WOT off the line and then goes, I also look at getting a new air intake boot and MAF.
I did some testing based on some research information on the internet. I took resistance measurements between pin 1 and pin 2 and got about 13 ohms and from pin 2 to pin 3 I got 14.5 ohms. I measured the voltage coming off the connector block and it was around 11.7 volts I think. Another test I did was I turned the car on but did not start the engine and felt the ICV, it was vibrating. I took the ICV off the engine while it was still vibrating and with it in my hand I pulled the electrical connector. The valve would move a little back when I would attach the connector. Can someone verify my impedance measurements and also if that valve should move a little bit or alot more??? Maybe I just have a worn out ICV and its time for replacement? Its 21 years old (car was built in 1994 tho its a 1995 model).
I think the solution here may to just get a new ICV as the car was running fine and smooth until I tried cleaning it!!! I think it has been on the way out for awhile as my car doesnt do anything at WOT off the line and then goes, I also look at getting a new air intake boot and MAF.
Idle Control Valve Testing and Diagnosis help
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